Putting an Extra-Fine Point on It: Pens and Pencils for Tax Season

If I’ve seemed a bit absent from the pen internets lately, it’s not without good reason: I’ve spent much of the past two weeks either traveling to pen shows or finalizing taxes, like everyone else here in the States. While I do have an accountant to help me finalize any submissions, I’m in that weird spot where my business isn’t large enough to justify the expense of a regular bookkeeper, so I still do much of the work myself, and a lot of it requires manual review of invoices, reports, and related documentation.

But enough about the nuts and bolts of tax prep. Nobody really wants to read about that, and those of you who aren’t serial procrastinators probably finished your taxes weeks ago. Every year, however, I always plan to write a post about what pens (and pencils) I use to make it through the first weeks of April, and never get around to it because the entire experience burns me out and I don’t want to even think about taxes more than I have to. But this year is different! 2024 tax season overlapped with an interesting vintage acquisition that I made at the Arkansas Pen Show, inspiring this morning’s post.

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Three pens/pencils for tax season: The Penco Prime Timber 2.0 leadholder, a Caran d’Ache Fixpencil, and a vintage Parker 51 “Flighter”.

Vintage Extra-Fine Nibs and Dagger-Sharp Leadholders

If there’s one frustration among those of us who naturally have very small handwriting or or work in professions where we regularly annotate documents or take smaller notes, it’s the absence of (1) truly “extra fine” fountain pen nibs that write consistently small out of the box and (2) reliably good pencils - and sharpeners - that can hold a point for any substantial length of time. Sure, all of these things do exist, but mostly in import products and on the higher-end of the price spectrum. The standard steel “fine” or “extra-fine” fountain pen nib from Bock and JoWo - ubiquitous in modern pens - isn’t small enough for the type of notetaking I do regularly, so I have to rely on custom-ground needlepoints and Japanese gold nibs like the fine and extra-fine nibs from Pilot and Sailor.

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This particular Parker 51 almost gets me as fine a line as I can get out of my Pilot Vanishing Point extra-fine nib.

This wasn’t always the case. Back when most bookkeeping and accounting work was done manually, it sustained a market for truly “extra-fine” nibs (preferably ones that were stiff to allow you to write very, very small with consistent inkflow, and which you sometimes see designated as “accounting nibs”). Case-in-point: the extra-fine nib on this Parker 51 “flighter” fountain pen I picked up at the pen show last week. I own a lot of Parker 51 fountain pens, and most of the nibs are standard fines or what I would consider a fine-medium: nothing like the smooth extra-fine nib on this one, which so far has held up wonderfully with reliable inkflow. I wouldn’t go so far as to call this pen a “needlepoint,” but it writes a line comparable to the extra-fine nib in Pilot Custom 74 or Vanishing Point, which I consider the most reliable, readily available, and reasonably priced writing experience for those looking to write very small with a fountain pen.

Otherwise, for very small writing I’m using a mechanical pencil, a .5mm low-viscosity ballpoint, or if I’m looking to keep things interesting, a leadholder pencil. One thing that I love about leadholders like the Caran d’Ache Fixpencil or the Penco Prime Timber is the ability to put an extremely sharp point on them, making them a favorite for art, drafting, or - like me - writing absolutely minute script. The 2mm and 3mm leads that these pencils use often sharpen better than the standard cores used in woodcase pencils, and you can easily change the hardness of the graphite to adjust point retention. In my experience, leadholder graphite tends to run slightly harder than its designation, so even a B or 2B drafting lead can get you both a very sharp point and a dark line.

To get the best point on a leadholder, I’d recommend you invest in a stand-alone lead pointer with replaceable blades, as the integrated sharpener in the cap of many leadholders isn’t of the highest quality. Sure, it’s serviceable in a pinch, but you won’t get the needle-tip that you see pictured here.

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Properly sharpened graphite will almost always get you a finer line than a pen.

Takeaways and Where to Buy

I’ve been using my Penco leadholder and new 51 nearly exclusively for the past week, and recommend both as excellent tools for everyday work. Unfortunately, finding a suitable vintage nib for your needs likely requires a trip to a pen show or some back-and-forth with a reputable vintage pen dealer. Parker 51 nibs typically aren’t marked, and I’ve noticed a lot of variability in size between different pens that supposedly have the same nib, so I almost always like to write with them before I purchase. I acquired this particular Parker 51 from Danny Fudge at The Write Pen, who has become my go-to resource for all things vintage. The Penco “Prime Timber” leadholder is sold in our own shop - it’s an inexpensive quality leadholder that includes an excellent lead pointer in the packaging. We also have a selection of Caran d’Ache Fixpencils and graphite refills, as well as the ultra-sharp M+R Brass Lead pointer, which has holes for sharpening two different lead widths and replaceable blades.

Do you have a favorite tax-time tool? (Not Turbotax or Quickbooks, sorry, analog only! :)) Bonus points if you still use a leatherbound ledger!

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How Fine is "Too Fine"? Comparing Tip Sizes Across Different Pen and Pencil Types

It can be hard to make sense of the different tip sizes in ballpoints, gel pens, and mechanical pencils. Manufacturers tend to denote the tip size in millimeters (or tenths of a millimeter) as opposed to the arguably more descriptive "fine,” "medium,” and “broad” or “bold” typically used in fountain pens and rollerballs. Moreover, the actual corresponding line width isn't always consistent, due to differences between ballpoint and gel ink. For example, a .5mm gel pen might write a wetter line that looks wider than a corresponding .5mm ballpoint.

Since I've spent the past couple of weeks on "day job" projects that have required a lot of travel and non-fountain-pen use, I thought it might be interesting to do a direct comparison of the different widths and test some recent observations.

These days, the only ballpoint pen I use with any regularity is the Uniball Jetstream. And I use ALL the sizes. Even in non-Jetstream pens, I’ve mostly swapped out the original refill for the Parker-style Jetstream SXR-600 (shown at bottom). Shown here are the Jetstream Prime (left) and Jetstream Edge (right).

Ballpoint Example: Uniball Jetstream

It's somewhat difficult to find decent ballpoints that allow you to write a very fine line outside of Uni's Jetstream line. There are exceptions, like the Anterique Mach Ball Pens and the Ohto Refills found in Mark's and Traveler's Company Pens, but these less common Japanese imports are generally limited to the .5mm size, whereas the Jetstream comes in in both .38mm and .28mm line widths.

Since ballpoint refills are typically drier than rollerball or gel pens, you really do get a lot of differentiation between the different line widths. That .28mm can almost be described as a “hairline”, especially with light pressure.

I'm always shocked at how smooth Jetstream refills write, even at the .28mm width. .5mm will always be my personal sweet spot for everyday writing, but it's nice to have the ultra fine options for notetaking and annotation. Currently, I’m only aware of the Jetstream Edge in this ultra-fine .28mm tip, but it’s possible there are others sold in Japan.

The Pilot Hi-Tec-C Coleto has long been my go-to gel multi pen. Check out my original review from 2016!

Gel Pen Example: Pilot Hi-Tec-C Coleto Multi-Pen

The Pilot Hi-Tec-C remains a favorite gel pen, and the Coleto multi-pen version (in all of its various iterations) is probably my all-time favorite option. With gel pens, I tend to prefer the Hi-Tec-C's needle-tip, and I've found the Coleto Multi-Pen refills to resist the flow issues and clogging that can be endemic to the standard Hi-Tec-C.

I don’t have a .7m Hi-Tec-C (or know whether one even exists), so I subbed in a Pilot G2 for the .7mm writing sample.

Personally, the "sweet spot" for me is the .4mm Hi-Tec-C Coleto refill. I find these ever-so-slightly wider and smoother than most ".38mm" refills. This could be an ink issue as opposed to tip size, but I'm speaking from hands-on experience here, not any sort of technical analysis.

Mechanical Pencil Examples: Uni Kuru Toga and Caran d'Ache 888 Infinite

I've only recently begun experimenting with mechanical pencils narrower than .5mm. During my recent trip to NYC, I picked up a .38mm Uni Kuru Toga at Kinokuniya. I'm surprised at how usable this pencil is, even if you do have to be somewhat careful to avoid lead breakage. Generally speaking, a .7mm mechanical pencil will give you a line width closest to a standard woodcase pencil freshly sharpened in a long-point sharpener. The .5mm is my default “I-want-to-write-small-without-worrying-about-lead-breakage” pencil, and the size I use the most frequently. If you use a higher quality pencil lead, a .5mm mechanical pencil can be nearly as break-resistant as a .7mm pencil.

Shown here: the .7mm Caran d’Ache 888 Infinite (sorry, no longer available but the lead is identical to other Caran d’Ache Mechanical Pencils), and two Uni Kuru-Toga pencils in both .5mm and .38mm. I’m aware that .9mm and 1.1mm mechanical pencil sizes exist as well, though they’re less common and at that width, I will probably use a standard woodcase pencil or a 2mm leadholder.

Practical Considerations: Some Parting Thoughts on Choosing a Size

First, the good news: Most ballpoints, gel pens, and mechanical pencils are relatively inexpensive, so the risk of choosing the "wrong line width" is relatively low. You can buy one of each size and write with them for a while before making a larger investment in a broader range of colors or multiple refills.

If you find that you enjoy a certain brand/width combination (for example, a Jetstream in .7mm), you aren’t necessarily limited to buying pens from a single company because you can often find a more universal refill. Shown here is the Jetstream SXR-600, a Parker-style refill that fits ballpoints and rollerballs from many different brands. The Jetstream SXR-200 D1 refill is a great option for most D1 multi pens.

Second, as someone who takes a lot of notes and is a serial annotator - meaning that I obsessively mark up books, articles, and documents as I read them - I tend to find a use case for all of the different sizes. While .5mm is my go-to size for everyday writing, I typically keep a .38mm or .4mm handy, and have been experimenting with the .28mm Jetstream Edge. On the other hand, if you mainly write longhand, such as using your pens and pencils to journal, you may find .7mm the best all around choice. .5mm or wider will give you a smoother writing experience.

Here you can see an overall comparison of the three categories of writing samples above. In general, gel pens write a wider line than their corresponding ballpoint, and mechanical pencils will of course have less “spread” on the page since they don’t use liquid ink. The paper used is the Blackwing “Illegal Pad”, in the ruled format with the classic center dividing line.

Finally, though I'm still working through my thoughts on ultra-fine mechanical pencils, I'm pretty confident that anything finer than .5mm won't make it into my everyday rotation. With a mechanical pencil, you have to worry about lead breakage, and these ultra-fine widths are inescapably more fragile than their .5mm and .7mm counterparts. With a .38mm mechanical pencil, I've found that I have to pay more attention to things like paper texture, which can snag the lead and cause a break.

The Gentleman Stationer is supported entirely by purchases from the T.G.S. Curated Shop and pledges via the T.G.S. Patreon Program. Certain pens and pencils discussed in this post are available for purchase in our shop, so please consider supporting us if you enjoyed this content!

Pen Myth-busting: Remember That Information on the Internet Has an Expiration Date

Last weekend’s trip to the California Pen Show only reinforced my perception that the pen community is growing, and exponentially at that! Most of my workshop attendees were attending their first pen show, and I continue to get questions via the website from readers looking to invest in their first “nice” pen, whether that’s a fountain pen, a ballpoint, or even a quality pencil.

While the internet is an excellent resource for new users, with a wealth of pen-related information available in forums, on YouTube, and on blogs (and yes, even Reddit), I’ve noticed something of mild concern: many of the “opinions and observations” about specific brands and products that I remember seeing in forums 10+ years ago are still prevalent, even if they’re no longer accurate due to updates in product offerings, ink formulations, and manufacturing techniques. I’m not faulting the newbies here: once something appears on the internet, it’s forever, and as we all know too well, if you repeat something enough times people will accept it as truth regardless of accuracy. I thought it worthwhile to do a post addressing a handful of specific beliefs/ideas that keep popping up:

I try to put my money where my mouth is.

Myth No. 1: TWSBI Pens Always Crack

I’m hesitant to even post this and resurrect “the debate”, but I feel that I have to say it because I’ve handled more TWSBIs in 10 years than most people, both as an enthusiast and (more recently) as a retailer: I have not found TWSBI's any more prone to cracking than any other plastic pen at a similar price point, and cracking is certainly not inevitable. I currently have 25 TWSBI pens in my possession, between my personal collection and product samples. I’ve probably bought and subsequently sold an equal number since 2015. During that time, I’ve had 2-3 pens develop cracks. Two were Diamond 530 and 540 fountain pens (the initial models from 2014-2016 that were indeed prone to cracking), and the other was a first-generation Diamond Mini that developed a hairline crack on the posting threads. I still have the latter pen - the crack is stable and doesn’t affect the usability of the pen. Notably - and of course I’m probably jinxing myself here - I don’t recall ever having had a TWSBI pen returned to my shop due to cracking.

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From left: Lamy Noto and Lamy 2000 ballpoints, plus writing samples from the fine and medium Lamy ballpoint refills.

Myth No. 2: Lamy Makes a Bad Ballpoint Refill

“I love the look of the Lamy ballpoints but everything I read says that Lamy ballpoint refills are terrible and you can’t replace them with an Easyflow 9000.” I get this question multiple times a month, and again, it’s largely derived from either (1) old information; or (2) someone writing a “review” extrapolating their personal preference to a general judgment about a product. My take: Starting in about 2017, the quality of Lamy ballpoint refills has consistently been excellent. Prior to that, I found the refills could be dry and often “skippy” (i.e., not writing a consistent line), but as I discuss a bit more below, ballpoint refills have improved across the board in the past 10 years, including at Lamy. Today, Lamy’s M16 refill is one of my favorite everyday writers, as is the M22 that fits the Lamy Pico. I even have a “Fine” M16 refill loaded into my 2000 ballpoint pen, and Lamy ballpoints at multiple price points constitute a core pen recommendation for those looking to give a pen as a gift. (Be sure to check out the new “Noto” and “econ” ballpoints, which are ridiculously inexpensive for their cool design.)

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In recent years, the wider availability of low-viscosity ballpoint refills like the Jetstream has driven many other manufacturers to up their game.

Myth No. 3: The Schmidt Easyflow9000 Is the Best ballpoint refill

“Does it come with an Easyflow9000, because I’ve been told that’s the only ballpoint pen worth buying.” (Translation: I read on the internet that the Schmidt Easyflow9000 is the only good standard ballpoint refill and you should therefore only buy compatible pens.) Here’s the deal: 10 years ago, you might have been right, because a lot of ballpoint refills - especially proprietary refills - were “skippy”, clogged easily, and didn’t write nearly as smoothly as Schmidt’s flagship cartridge. I used to buy Easyflows by the dozen. Today, it’s probably fourth or fifth on my list of preferred ballpoint refills, due to the increased availability of “low viscosity” ballpoint inks like the Uniball Jetstream SXR-600 in multiple formats (not to mention finer point sizes), and advances in ballpoint ink technology across the board. I would even say that I prefer Schmidt’s own P900 refill over the Easyflow, because I like a slightly drier, less oily ballpoint writing experience and the P900 accomplishes that without losing much, if any, darkness or line consistency.

Myth No. 4: Lamy 2000 Fountain Pens Suffer from disproportionately Bad Nib Quality Control

There are Lamy 2000 haters who will virulently disagree with me, but I don’t believe this “issue” ever existed on the scale many people seem to think. Based on (1) my own experience owning a dozen different Lamy 2000s in every conceivable nib size; (2) conversations with other users; and (3) my experience as a retailer, I believe the perception that Lamy 2000 nibs suffer from widespread QC failures is the result of a mismatch between personal preference/expectations and the underlying hooded design of the fountain pen and how the nib is tipped/ground, especially in the extra-fine and fine nib sizes. The finer nibs can have a more angular, almost architect-ish tipping on them, which can be incompatible with certain writing styles (especially those who rotate their pen a lot). I always allow returns if this becomes an issue, but it happens quite infrequently and upon inspection, I’ve never found what I would consider a true “QC issue” with the nib. My advice: If you like the Lamy 2000 style, but also enjoy the feel of a super-smooth, rounded nib, then start with the medium or broad and have the nib ground down if necessary. Personally, I love how Lamy 2000 fine nibs write and they are a mainstay of my everyday rotation.

(Note: You absolutely can get a bad nib on any brand or model of fountain pen, and it happens more frequently than I would like across brands. The above should be taken to say that I’ve not personally noticed more frequent nib QC issues with the Lamy 2000 than with any other pen I’ve used or sold. If it does happen, you should contact the retailer, who should replace it.)

Disclaimer And a Side Note

I am a retailer of TWSBI, Lamy, Schmidt, and many other brands in addition to those mentioned in this post, but you likely already know that if you’re a regular reader of the site. With that said, I dislike that retailers and even bloggers can feel pressured into watering down, or not offering at all, their opinions on certain brands out of fear of being labeled a “shill” or “biased.” I personally don’t feel any compunction about offering the opinions above because I’ve held them and written about them long before I became a retailer. Moreover, I do feel a sense of responsibility to offer my own opinions, especially since they’re colored by more than a decade in the pen community and having handled hundreds, if not thousands, of pens. In any event, given how I’ve structured my business, if I think a product is poor quality, I won’t sell it. I’m a bit old-school in that I think if you sell a product, you’re by implication endorsing it, and you should be prepared to stand by it if any issues arise.

Twist or Click: What's Your Retractable Pen Preference?

Within the broader world of pens, enthusiasts have many different choices to make. Fountain pen, rollerball, or ballpoint? Bottled fountain pen ink or ink cartridge? Post your pens or don’t post your pens? There’s no “right” answer, as all of these end up being matters of personal preference (though heatedly debated online). One discussion, however, has been the subject of surprisingly little conversation throughout my years in the community: the pros and cons of different retractable pen mechanisms.

Why Does The Mechanism Matter?

To begin, let’s assume that you’ve already decided that you want a retractable pen vs. a capped pen. You do most of your writing “on the go,” whether that be in the field, in the car, in the kitchen, standing at the back of a crowded boardroom holding a clipboard, etc. You need a pen that you can quickly deploy, that writes reliably, and where you don’t need to worry about keeping track of a loose cap. Retractable it is!

Both click pens and twist pens come in a wide range of formats, but pens within each category typically share a few things in common.

But many different pens are “retractable.” You have the classic click pen, and within that category, many more sub-categories of different click mechanisms (including not just the classic bolt-action pens and “side-click” pens with release buttons). The second largest group of retractable pens are twist-activated, which typically involves turning part of the barrel to deploy the refill - or in the case of a twist-retractable fountain pen like the Lamy Dialog3 - the nib. Each category has its own set of considerations, and while I personally use both, the “better choice” for you is definitely context-dependent.

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Six Click Pens, from Left: Caran d’Ache 849 Paul Smith; Lamy 2000 Ballpoint, Anterique Ballpoint, Pilot G2 Limited, Pilot Vanishing Point, Tombow Airpress (a/k/a the greatest fidget toy of all times - that knock is addictive!)

The Pros and Cons of the “Click Pen”

This article won’t dive into the particularities, advantages, and disadvantages of different styles of click-mechanism: that’s a rabbit hole for another day. But in general, I’m referring to any pen that allows you to click a button at the end of the pen to deploy the tip or nib. Examples of common click pens in this category include: the vintage-style Bic Clic (Field Notes version and countless other Clic-inspired pens like those from Anterique); Pilot G2/Zebra Sarasa/similar gel pens; Caran d’Ache 849 (both ballpoint and rollerball); the Lamy Safari Ballpoint, and on the fountain pen side, pens like the Pilot Vanishing Point/Decimo and the Platinum Curidas.

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Why write with a click pen?

• Speed. If what you’re looking for is a writing instrument that allows you to get writing quickly with little to no fuss, you need a click pen. The classic example is the newspaper reporter in the field, pairing a Bic Clic with a spiral bound reporter’s notebook. Clicking the end of the pen to extend/retract the tip takes no time at all.

• Ease of Use, Especially One-Handed. I spend a lot of time writing while standing, holding a legal pad or portfolio in one hand and a pen in the other. In addition to speed, a click-pen allows you to operate the pen one handed.

• Low Cost. Click pens are generally less expensive than other options, as most mechanisms are mass-produced. As noted below in the “twist-pen” discussion, this can lead to long-term durability issues, but you still have to work pretty hard to wear out even the cheapest click pen.

The main drawback to a click mechanism is that it’s easy to accidentally deploy the refill in your pocket or bag. While not a huge deal with a ballpoint or gel pen, both of which use more viscous inks, this type of “inkcident” can be disastrous with a liquid ink pen such as a capless rollerball or fountain pen. I’ve personally ruined countless pairs of pants by carrying click pens in my pocket, to the point where I hardly use capless rollerball refills anymore and have mostly moved to low-viscosity ballpoint cartridges in all of my click pens. (If a capless fountain pen like a Vanishing Point accidentally deploys, you can also bend the nib, but it’s much less common for people to try to carry these pens loose in a pocket or bag because they’re more expensive.)

Six twist pens, from left: Uni Jetstream Prime, Lamy Dialog CC, Lamy Dialog3, Montblanc Classique Ballpoint, Retro 51 Tornado, Lamy Safari Twin Pen 2-in-1.

The Pros and Cons of a Twist Pen

If you enjoy pocket carry, or like to store pens in pen loops or slots built into your bags and/or portfolios, you might prefer a pen with a twist-action mechanism. The main advantage for me personally is that there is a lower risk of accidentally engaging the mechanism and having ink from the refill leak into the interior of your bag or pocket. While it’s a bit more difficult to use the pen one-handed, many people prefer the streamlined design of twist pens over the somewhat inelegant push-button knock. Examples of common twist-action pens include fancier options from Montblanc and Waterman, as well as less expensive pens like the Uni Jetstream Prime, the Baron Fig Squire, and the Retro 51 Tornado.

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Uni’s Jetstream Prime is a slim ballpoint with an excellent refill and a great price point.

Why Write with a Twist Pen?

• Lower Risk of Ruining Your Bag or Clothing. As noted above, this one is fairly straightforward. It’s much more difficult for a twist pen to accidentally deploy, though of course it can happen. (To be absolutely safe, I often recommend that people only carry capped pens in their pockets.)

• Increased Durability. Click mechanisms tend to wear out. Most of the parts used in lower-cost, mainstream pens are mass-produced and not designed to last forever. Combined with the tendency to use pens as fidget toys, most click pens will eventually break. In my personal experience twist-action pens have fewer moving parts and therefore last longer. Some of my nicer twist ballpoints, such as my Montblanc 144 “Classique” and Waterman Expert, are upwards of 25 years old. And don’t get me started on all those Cross Century and Century II pens from the 1960s….

• Streamlined Design. Without the need for a button (or “knock”) at the end, twist pens can adopt more elegant, streamlined designs. The difference is especially apparent when you get into higher-end writing instruments. For example, Pilot does an excellent job incorporating the knock into the design of the Vanishing Point and Decimo, but Lamy scores points for the design work on their twist-action “Dialog” series.

As good as they look, the Lamy Dialog pens also make my point about click pens being a lower-cost option: The Lamy Dialog CC and Dialog 3 can cost as much as 2x the Pilot Vanishing Point.

Did You Enjoy This post? Come See Me This Week at the California Pen Show!

The primary focus of The Gentleman Stationer, both the informational site our curated retail shop, is to help people find practical stationery that fits their everyday writing needs. I firmly believe that stationery is meant to be used, not just hoarded or collected, and I approach everything from the perspective of an everyday user as well as an enthusiast. Retractable pens are one of those ubiquitous items that everyone uses - typically without thinking much about it - though with just a bit of thought and consideration you might be able to upgrade your writing experience even more. There are so many different options out there!

Today’s post on retractable pens is just one of many different topics I’ll be discussing in my seminar "Stationery for Everyday Writing: Choosing Pens, Inks, and Paper for Your Daily Life”. I have two time slots: 2:30pm PT on Friday and 11:00 am PT on Saturday. I’ll also be hosting the “Pen Shows After Dark” event on Friday, which will be on-site at the show hotel. There’s no cost to attend any of the events I’m participating in, so please do stop by!

The Gentleman Stationer is supported entirely by purchases from the T.G.S. Curated Shop and pledges via the T.G.S. Patreon Program.

Hierarchies of Fountain Pen Friendly Paper, Updated as of January 24, 2024!

I’ve taken some time this week to update another site resource, as part of an ongoing project that I plan to continue in response to reader feedback. Apparently many of you find these comprehensive resources helpful, especially for those new to fountain pens, inks, and quality paper!

This particular post, titled “Hierarchies of Fountain Pen Friendly Paper,” originated back in March 2021 in response to reader requests for an overall “guide” to fountain pen friendly paper. Honestly, there are so many different paper options out there that it’s impossible to rate, much less rank, them all, but this post grouping some of the more popular brands into “Tiers” of fountain pen friendliness has proven helpful to a lot of you so I’ll keep it going! I also want to maintain this as a “post”, as opposed to a “page”, because it has a rich comment section with lots of different recommendations for papers not yet available in the U.S. market. Today’s update adds a few new brands that I’ve discovered, and deletes some paper options that are no longer available due to their having been discontinued. Enjoy!

The Gentleman Stationer is supported entirely by purchases from the T.G.S. Curated Shop and pledges via the T.G.S. Patreon Program.