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The Gentleman Stationer

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Japan Trip Journal: Ink Shopping in Tokyo

June 3, 2026

If you’re into ink, there’s no better place to visit than Japan. Most independent stationery stores have their own house inks, if not their own entire lines, and it can quickly get overwhelming due to the sheer number of shops. The trick is to recognize that you can’t possibly collect them all (though some people inevitably try) and to enjoy exploring the different offerings without necessarily feeling pressured to buy all of them!

Four Maruzen inks, in basic colors of Blue, Blue-Black, Sepia, and Grey.

Store Inks I Picked Up On My Travels: Maruzen, Bungukan Kobayashi, Sessai, and Ancora

I spent a lot of time in Tokyo perusing the ink section of Maruzen, a large Japanese bookstore with an excellent selection of stationery. In addition to Maruzen’s own “Athena” line of inks, the Tokyo Station location carried a handful of inks made for Bungukan Kobayashi in Shizuoka, as well as the “Sessai” series made for Bungukan Tokizawa in Niigata. All three series are made by Sailor, who appears to make many store-exclusive fountain pen inks in Japan, though Tono & Lims is also gaining a larger footprint. (Some of these Tono & Lims inks are being released globally as well.)

Two inks from the Bungukan Kobayashi collection: Suruga Bay Night and Shizuoka Green Tea.

Two Sessai Inks. The one on the right is a subtle shimmer ink similar to the discontinued Iroshizuku Ina Ho.

The most unique ink I acquired was the “Rainy Day” ink from Ancora, Sailor’s flagship store. As you might guess from the name, Ancora only sells this ink in-store on rainy days, so we were lucky to be in Tokyo during the rainy season! In addition to the ink, Ancora also carries a Rainy Day fountain pen and matching converter.

Perceived Differences Between the U.S. and Japanese Ink Markets

While admittedly I have a limited perspective, not having explored beyond the major Tokyo stationery stores, I made a few observations:

  • The Japanese ink market focuses less on things like shimmer inks, super-sheeners, and other “special properties” that U.S. users tend to obsess over. While this is changing, and shimmer ink is gaining more of a foothold, Japanese versions tend to be more subtle and feature finer particles than you find in many U.S. and European brands. I also saw several instances where these inks were being marketed towards glass and dip pens, as opposed to fountain pens.

  • Colors in general tend to be more subtle and understated. Take the Maruzen Athena series, for example. The core colors are blue, blue-black, sepia, and grey. The Ancora Rainy Day ink is a shading blue with grey undertones (generally a popular color that you often see in Japanese ink lines). This is fine with me, as I appreciate inks that I can use everyday for office work, etc.

  • Many ink lines seem to have 5-10 colors, with new colors introduced gradually or rotated in and out as they are available. I don’t think I visited a shop where all of the colors were available at one time. Maruzen had about five of the Athena inks available for purchase, with others showing as out of stock. I guess I’ll have to come back to pick up the rest later.

A special ink needs a special pen, and vice-versa. I opted out of the Ancora Rainy Day Sailor - it appears to be a Pro Gear Slim with a steel nib - because it’s too small for my hand. But I did decide to pick up one of these Pilot Custom 845 Urushi pens, with a broad nib that shows off the shading.

Ancora Rainy Day Ink Writing Sample on Iroful Paper

Depending on the light and paper used, the Rainy Day ink can appear as a shading mid-blue (MD Cotton swatches at top), or a true blue grey (which is what it looks like here on Iroful paper).

Ink shopping in Tokyo was a fun adventure and I’ll definitely be returning in the (hopefully near) future! Most of the inks I purchased are store-exclusive, meaning that they are only sold in-store and not online, so to get your hands on these you will either need to visit the shop yourself or have someone in Japan go in person to purchase the inks and ship them to you. Most stores attempt to avoid resellers, with Ancora limiting customers to three bottles per person. Even on a relatively busy rainy day, everyone there got to leave with a bottle of ink.

The Maruzen Athena ink bottle might be one of my all-time favorites. I love the classic pharmacy-style design.

Further Reading on my trip to japan

You can read more about my trip to Japan in prior posts, including this one discussing our visit to Kakimori (including a custom notebook and custom ink mixing experience), as well as some obligatory stationery shopping pictorials.

Please note that the inks featured in this post were acquired for my own collection or as gifts for friends and are not for sale. I will not respond to resale inquiries. The Gentleman Stationer is supported by online purchases from the T.G.S. Curated Shop and pledges via the T.G.S. Patreon Program. For more Japan store visits, haul posts, and just some general commentary and observations from a place I’ve never visited before, be sure to follow the TGS Instagram and YouTube accounts!

In Travel Tags Tokyo, Japan 2026, Traveling, Ink Review
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Japan Trip Journal: A Visit to Kakimori, Including Custom Notebooks and the InkStand!

May 30, 2026

I’ve been waiting to post about one highlight of my trip to Tokyo: our visit to the Kakimori store, which included making our own custom notebooks and mixing a custom Kakimori ink at the “Inkstand” ink bar. While most people in the United States know Kakimori for their signature conical metal dip nibs, they actually offer a wide range of products, including an extensive paper and ink selection, high-end office supplies under the “Object Index” line, and a curated selection of products outside of their own brand.

All of the covers and papers in the sorter - the first step in the custom notebook process.

The Kakimori Custom Notebook Experience

Kakimori offers customers the ability to build their own spiral notebook, choosing from a diverse selection of covers, bindings, papers, and closures. While you can customize your notebook online via the Kakimori website, the experience is best enjoyed in-store, where you can make an appointment and hand-select everything in person.

You can choose up to four packs of paper per notebook, an add dividers if you wish.

Kakimori notebooks come in two sizes: B5 and B6, with a spiral binding. I built one in each size, mainly because I couldn’t narrow my cover choices and wanted a leather cover and a fabric cover. Paper was a bit easier, because the choices are somewhat more limited (OK Fools, Neue Grey, Bank Paper, and Conqueror Laid) and you can select up to four papers per notebook. Once you’ve selected your cover and paper, you can add things like bindings, elastics, snap closures, and dividers.

If you’re unsure, you can test each of the papers on offer!

The total cost for the two notebooks came to around $68. While not inexpensive, you’re paying for the experience as well as the physical product, and if you visit the Kakimori store again they will even refill the cover with fresh pages! So if, like me, you opted for the leather cover you can continue to enjoy it as it ages. (Note to self: plan to go back for a notebook refill.)

I chose two notebooks: a B5 with burgundy leather and black trim, and a lighter canvas B6.

I love Neue Gray paper (right). For both notebooks I chose a combination of this one, OK Fools, and Conqueror Laid. All of the papers on offer are fountain pen friendly.

The Kakimori Inkstand Experience: Mixing a Custom Kakimori Ink

While I love notebooks, I might have had more fun mixing my own custom Kakimori ink at the Kakimori “Inkstand.” Available by appointment only, the “Inkstand” experience gives you an hour to mix your own Kakimori ink from the 14 available colors in the Inkstand line of pigment inks. You will have a 15-minute orientation, followed by 45 minutes to mix and test inks to achieve your desired color. My goal was a dark green, and I spent most of the time experimenting with various combinations of yellow, black, and cactus green. I ended up very close to what I originally had in my head! Note that Kakimori inks are pigment inks, which require that you clean your fountain pen a bit more frequently to avoid clogging, since they are formulated from particles of pigment suspended in dye. The upside is the permanence and vibrant colors, as well as the ability to mix colors among others in the same line.

I made a mess very quickly. Not pictured: me spilling a bottle.

A close up of my various experiments!

And, the final result!

Takeaways and Where to Find Kakimori in the U.S.

If you’re ever in Tokyo, I highly recommend a visit to Kakimori because it was easily one of the highlights of my trip. Even if you don’t want to mix your own ink or create your own notebook, they have an extensive lineup of standard products. We have worked with Kakimori for years and regularly stock their dip nibs, fountain pens, pigment inks, and the “Object Index” line. It can sometimes take a while to get Kakimori products into the store since they need to be imported - and most are small-batch and made in small quantities - but we intend to continue carrying them for the foreseeable future!

While I didn’t end up using shimmer, I did mix a bit of Kakimori’s “Pearlescent” additive to see what my color would look like. I dropped a bit too much in. :)

In addition to our physical store, the Gentleman Stationer is supported by online purchases from the T.G.S. Curated Shop and pledges via the T.G.S. Patreon Program. For more Japan store visits, haul posts, and just some general commentary and observations from a place I’ve never visited before, be sure to follow the TGS Instagram and YouTube accounts!

In Pen Store, Travel Tags Japan 2026, Kakimori, Kakimori Notebooks, Kakimori Inkstand, Kakimori Pigment Inks
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It’s hard to miss the big red paper clip.

Japan Trip Journal: Days 2 and 3 (Stationery, Stationery, and More Stationery)

May 23, 2026

I’ve now spent two days in Tokyo, although I’m operating at half-speed due to jet lag and relying on adrenaline to carry me through. As you will see from the pictures here, we’ve visited several of the major Tokyo Stationery Stores, including Itoya and Maruzen; the Sailor boutique Ancora; and a handful of smaller market-stall stores. We also stopped by the TRAVELER’s Factory Store and the Tokyo Starbucks Reserve Store (known for its TRAVELER’s Company collaborations and special edition stationery products). To be honest, the past couple of days have been overwhelming, without much time to digest everything I’ve seen into a comprehensive post. Tokyo easily has more stationery than any city I’ve ever visited, so for now, enjoy some pictures I managed to snap. More to come!

The flagship Itoya store has a diorama featuring a model of their original storefront. There’s been a big history component to this trip in addition to pure shopping.

Yes, that is an entire wall of 6-ring binder refills.

We spent a Saturday afternoon exploring a market area with a local fountain pen enthusiast who was kind enough to show us around! Several of the stalls featured fountain pens - mostly modern and late-vintage pens.

A case full of fountain pens in one market stall.

I managed to pick up another now-discontinued Pilot Capless in the Japan-only Mustard Yellow color, with the special alloy nib.

We had to wait in line to enter the TRAVELER’S Store. Demand doesn’t seem to be slowing down globally….

Store edition glass pens from Tsutaya Books

These glass pens were mostly house exclusives to Tsutaya Books, located near the TRAVELER’S Factory Store.

Don’t forget our memorial day weekend sale!

Through Monday evening (5/25), take 10% off Paper and Ink in our online shop using “TOKYO10” at checkout. We are also open in the Nashville store regular hours, 1-6pm Thursday and Friday, and 10am-5pm Saturday. Be sure to come by and say hello to Lisa and Nick!

In addition to our physical store, the Gentleman Stationer is supported by online purchases from the T.G.S. Curated Shop and pledges via the T.G.S. Patreon Program. For more Japan store visits, haul posts, and just some general commentary and observations from a place I’ve never visited before, be sure to follow the TGS Instagram and YouTube accounts!

In Travel Tags Japan 2026, Tokyo, Pen Travel, On The Paper Trail
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Japan Trip Journal: Day One (Travel Day)

May 20, 2026

And we’re off! This will be my last dispatch from the U.S. before we land in Japan in approximately 20 hours. I say “approximately” because departure has been delayed out of LAX for two hours, but at least we have some time to catch up and decompress. (This is a three-layover, 25+ hour journey, which I’ve not done in many, many years.)

My everyday pen case for this trip will be my Rickshaw Fillmore, and my everyday notebook a TGS_25 Roterfaden (we hope to have more this summer).

So here’s where things stand, stationery-wise. I posted earlier that I was considering a two-pen carry. That did not happen, though I did thin out my notebooks a bit and made my bag a bit lighter. You can read more about how I chose my gear for this trip in last week’s post, but future posts will focus more on new discoveries.

I added another fountain pen for the trip - a Pilot Custom Heritage 92 - as well as a few gel pens.

Despite a busy schedule, I plan to do regular trip updates, even if they might not be daily. You can expect store visits, haul posts, and just some general commentary and observations from a place I’ve never visited before. Stay tuned, and also watch the TGS Instagram and YouTube accounts!

Things will remain business as usual in Nashville while I’m gone! Come see TGS in our Nashville showroom, open regular hours this week (Thursday and Friday 1-6pm and Saturday 10am-5pm).

In Travel Tags Japan 2026, Travel, Editorial

Travel Stationery: How to Pack for a Two Week International Trip (!?!)

May 9, 2026

Consider this the first post in my “Japan” series, because in less than two weeks I will be on the road to Japan for a two-week stationery adventure with my friends Lisa Vanness, Matthew Chen, and others. First order of business: what to pack, because - obviously - I don’t want to travel too heavy on the way over there. The goal is for the pen case to be empty going over, and full coming back!

Yes, I know that you can use your phone, but I want to be OFF my phone as much as possible on this trip, and I love being able to mark up a physical map, etc. Therefore: Guidebooks.

Purpose of this Trip: 75% Business, 25% Vacation, 100% Fun

The main event of our trip is nominally the Naniwa Pen Show in Osaka Japan. While we have additional business events and meetings scheduled over the course of two weeks, there will be plenty of time to roam, and I’m looking forward to spending two weeks nearly entirely devoted to stationery while learning more about a country I’ve never visited. For a trip like this I plan on taking a relatively light, flexible setup with a focus on travel journaling.

I’m sticking with my simple carry.

Pens: I’m Still Considering a Two-Pen Carry

Last week I did a “pen case dump” post, and at the end I teased that I would be considering a two-pen carry for this trip. Why only two pens? Because I’m going to be buying more on the trip itself, and the writing I’ll be doing is more travel journaling so I will need reliable workhorse writers that aren’t sensitive to things like temperature and air pressure.

I lean heavily on fine-tip ballpoint pens when I travel.

My two daily drivers will be a Laurett’s Waka Ebonite Ballpoint and a Pilot Custom 823. The ballpoint is a great write-anywhere pen, perfect for working on a long 12+ hour plane ride. I consider the Custom 823 an excellent choice for long-haul travel because (1) it holds a ton of ink, meaning that I likely will not have to refill until I have the opportunity to buy more ink at my destination; and (2) the pen incorporates a shut-off valve so it won’t burp ink into the cap due to changes in air pressure. If I add a third pen, it will be some sort of pocket pen that I can carry with me to carry around during the day for quick notes - probably a TRAVELER’S Company Brass Ballpoint or a Schon DSGN Pocket 6 ballpoint.

My two favorite pen cases at the moment: A Nagasawa Kip Leather Zippered Case and a Rickshaw Fillmore. Both are coming with me.

Pen Case(s): Maximizing Capacity and Protection

My everyday pen case is going to be a Rickshaw Fillmore or Sinclair, both of which are relatively lightweight, durable, and pack well in a backpack. For transporting any purchases back home (especially loose pens purchased at a pen show) I’m likely going to bring one or more larger cases such as a Galen Leather Magnum Opus or my 10-pen Nagasawa Kip Leather Zippered Case. Probably both.

Yes, that bottom pocket can hold at least two A5 or A5 slim notebooks. It can probably hold more, but I’m trying to limit weight, and notebooks are the first to go.

Notebooks: Balancing Fun with Necessity

The hardest part of any trip, for me at least, is narrowing down the notebooks. Right now I’m planning to bring two Roterfadens: an A5 to hold my planner, and my TGS25 A5 Slim to serve as my travel journal. The TGS25 will probably be on me at all times for journaling, stamp collecting, and other writing on the go. I struggle with whether to take a 6-ring binder - I usually use these for work notes. Though I hope I don’t need to do any day-job related work while I’m traveling, I may add a smaller Bible or Mini-6 binder.

Lochby recently added “A6” and “A7” Field Binders to their lineup. I may test drive one of the smaller formats on this trip.

New Travel Bag: Versatility and The Tom Bihn Synapse 25

I don’t write much about bags, but expect a full post-trip gear recap that prominently features this latest addition, the Tom Bihn Synapse 25. I purchased this bag because I needed something more compact than my 31L North Face Surge, with more exterior pockets and better organization. I didn’t want to go all the way down to a true day pack, because I fully expect to be carting around a lot of purchases at various times and I plan to bring my Rickshaw Banzai Bag as a smaller option. But the main selling point of the Synapse 25? That bottom front pocket fits as many as three A5 notebooks! I’ve been able to fit a Roterfaden A5, a Roterfaden TGS_25 A5 Slim, and another hardcover A5 notebook (though it’s very unlikely I’ll be walking around with three notebooks at once).

This backpack has five relatively large exterior pockets, including seemingly bottomless side pockets with integrated pen slots.

Keep Track of Me While I’m in Japan!

I’ll be posting more updates on this trip as the departure day approaches. Lisa and I plan to document the trip on our respective social media accounts, as well as the On The Paper Trail accounts, so be sure to follow those to keep tabs on us! In my absence, I have a team of friends and employees who will be minding the shop here in Nashville, so the store will remain fully open while I’m away. Also, the comments are open for recommendations on stores and shops to visit in Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, and anywhere else nearby!

The Gentleman Stationer is supported by purchases from the T.G.S. Curated Shop and pledges via the T.G.S. Patreon Program. You can also come visit us at our physical stationery store in Nashville, Tennessee.

In Travel Tags Travel, Japan 2026
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