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Japan Trip Journal: Ink Shopping in Tokyo

June 3, 2026

If you’re into ink, there’s no better place to visit than Japan. Most independent stationery stores have their own house inks, if not their own entire lines, and it can quickly get overwhelming due to the sheer number of shops. The trick is to recognize that you can’t possibly collect them all (though some people inevitably try) and to enjoy exploring the different offerings without necessarily feeling pressured to buy all of them!

Four Maruzen inks, in basic colors of Blue, Blue-Black, Sepia, and Grey.

Store Inks I Picked Up On My Travels: Maruzen, Bungukan Kobayashi, Sessai, and Ancora

I spent a lot of time in Tokyo perusing the ink section of Maruzen, a large Japanese bookstore with an excellent selection of stationery. In addition to Maruzen’s own “Athena” line of inks, the Tokyo Station location carried a handful of inks made for Bungukan Kobayashi in Shizuoka, as well as the “Sessai” series made for Bungukan Tokizawa in Niigata. All three series are made by Sailor, who appears to make many store-exclusive fountain pen inks in Japan, though Tono & Lims is also gaining a larger footprint. (Some of these Tono & Lims inks are being released globally as well.)

Two inks from the Bungukan Kobayashi collection: Suruga Bay Night and Shizuoka Green Tea.

Two Sessai Inks. The one on the right is a subtle shimmer ink similar to the discontinued Iroshizuku Ina Ho.

The most unique ink I acquired was the “Rainy Day” ink from Ancora, Sailor’s flagship store. As you might guess from the name, Ancora only sells this ink in-store on rainy days, so we were lucky to be in Tokyo during the rainy season! In addition to the ink, Ancora also carries a Rainy Day fountain pen and matching converter.

Perceived Differences Between the U.S. and Japanese Ink Markets

While admittedly I have a limited perspective, not having explored beyond the major Tokyo stationery stores, I made a few observations:

  • The Japanese ink market focuses less on things like shimmer inks, super-sheeners, and other “special properties” that U.S. users tend to obsess over. While this is changing, and shimmer ink is gaining more of a foothold, Japanese versions tend to be more subtle and feature finer particles than you find in many U.S. and European brands. I also saw several instances where these inks were being marketed towards glass and dip pens, as opposed to fountain pens.

  • Colors in general tend to be more subtle and understated. Take the Maruzen Athena series, for example. The core colors are blue, blue-black, sepia, and grey. The Ancora Rainy Day ink is a shading blue with grey undertones (generally a popular color that you often see in Japanese ink lines). This is fine with me, as I appreciate inks that I can use everyday for office work, etc.

  • Many ink lines seem to have 5-10 colors, with new colors introduced gradually or rotated in and out as they are available. I don’t think I visited a shop where all of the colors were available at one time. Maruzen had about five of the Athena inks available for purchase, with others showing as out of stock. I guess I’ll have to come back to pick up the rest later.

A special ink needs a special pen, and vice-versa. I opted out of the Ancora Rainy Day Sailor - it appears to be a Pro Gear Slim with a steel nib - because it’s too small for my hand. But I did decide to pick up one of these Pilot Custom 845 Urushi pens, with a broad nib that shows off the shading.

Ancora Rainy Day Ink Writing Sample on Iroful Paper

Depending on the light and paper used, the Rainy Day ink can appear as a shading mid-blue (MD Cotton swatches at top), or a true blue grey (which is what it looks like here on Iroful paper).

Ink shopping in Tokyo was a fun adventure and I’ll definitely be returning in the (hopefully near) future! Most of the inks I purchased are store-exclusive, meaning that they are only sold in-store and not online, so to get your hands on these you will either need to visit the shop yourself or have someone in Japan go in person to purchase the inks and ship them to you. Most stores attempt to avoid resellers, with Ancora limiting customers to three bottles per person. Even on a relatively busy rainy day, everyone there got to leave with a bottle of ink.

The Maruzen Athena ink bottle might be one of my all-time favorites. I love the classic pharmacy-style design.

Further Reading on my trip to japan

You can read more about my trip to Japan in prior posts, including this one discussing our visit to Kakimori (including a custom notebook and custom ink mixing experience), as well as some obligatory stationery shopping pictorials.

Please note that the inks featured in this post were acquired for my own collection or as gifts for friends and are not for sale. I will not respond to resale inquiries. The Gentleman Stationer is supported by online purchases from the T.G.S. Curated Shop and pledges via the T.G.S. Patreon Program. For more Japan store visits, haul posts, and just some general commentary and observations from a place I’ve never visited before, be sure to follow the TGS Instagram and YouTube accounts!

In Travel Tags Tokyo, Japan 2026, Traveling, Ink Review
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All I’m bringing this week.

Vacation Prep: What I’m Taking and What to Expect Next Week

July 12, 2025

So we’re taking a vacation. A real vacation. The kind of do-not-much-but-read, actually relaxing vacation. I have some pre-set content queued up, but things will be quiet here for a few days. The brick-and-mortar shop will be closed next week (July 13-20), but online orders will still be processed and will continue to ship as I have helpers assisting with fulfillment. We’re driving all day tomorrow, so “Sunday Reading” will likely become “Monday Reading”, and I have some fun “throwback” posts on the way.

My 2025 Vacation Travel Kit

I’m keeping it simple, per the picture above, taking a single Rickshaw Sinclair with whatever fountain pens are currently in there, a couple Lamy’s with the new (and restocked!) Jetstream refills, plus my current Maruman Mnemosyne Journal and my oldest Roterfaden Taschenbegleiter with a Nanami Paper Seven Seas writer containing a partially finished first draft of a creative writing project I want to revisit. We’ll see how much actually happens, but the plan is to disconnect from work and “the world” for a bit. Honestly, this is a travel-kit-by-default because I’m working all day today to get pending orders out the door or pulled for packing tomorrow and don’t have time to redo anything, but I put a lot of thought into this currently inked rotation and really want to use all of these pens until they’re dry.

See you next week!

A5 Roterfadens are back in stock! These are easy to ship while I’m out, so orders will be processed in our normal shipping time.

In Travel Tags Vacation, Traveling, Travel Pens

Travel Interlude: First Bag Dump of 2025, Plus a Travel/Pen Show Week Promo

March 5, 2025

It’s been a while since I did a “Bag Dump” post, probably because I haven’t traveled much in the last six months. For a short 2-day trip like this one, I still carry a fair amount of stationery, especially when the travel relates to a work conference where I’ll be taking a lot of notes. Because this trip doesn’t involve a pen show (sorry, Baltimore!), you won’t see any fountain pens featured here, and this particular Rickshaw Sinclair Model-R permanently holds a fistful of workhorse rollerballs, ballpoints, fineliners, and gel pens, which is what you see above from left to right:

  • Rickshaw Bagworks Sinclair Model-R Pen Case in Saffron Yellow. One of my absolute favorite pen cases for travel, the Sinclair Model-R (and previously, the Nock Co. Sinclair) makes a great modular case that’s simple to move between bags.

  • Leuchtturm Drehgriffel Gel Pen. A review in process, and one where I keep going back and forth on how much I like the product. Some days, I love the Drehgriffel; on other days I wish it were slightly larger. Stay tuned.

  • Lamy 2000 Rollerball. I’m not a proponent of the Lamy 2000 fountain pen for air travel, since hooded nib pens don’t generally don’t handle the pressure change well and tend to burp ink into the cap. Given how much I love the overall design of the Lamy 2000, however, one of the other Lamy 2000 formats always comes with me. Here, I’ve hacked a .5mm Ohto rollerball refill by taping a small piece of paper to the end to make it longer, so this is a rollerball pen with a fine refill that doesn’t feather or bleed. Perfection? Possibly.

  • Tom’s Studio Lumos Pro Duo Fineliner, with Leather Rollstop/Grip. You all know how much I use these things, so I won’t belabor the point, but I added the rollstop to ensure this one doesn’t end up rolling off the table onto the floor. I don’t want to be that guy crawling up the aisle at a conference in the middle of the presentation looking for his pen. I swore that would never happen again.

  • Gravitas Twist Ultemate Ballpoint. A pen that I picked up some time ago but have held off on reviewing while Gravitas worked through some production issues. It’s back in the queue for future commentary.

  • Uni Jetstream Prime Lite Touch 3 Multi Pen. I don’t go anywhere without at least one Multi Pen. The recently released Lite Touch 3 made the cut for this outing.

  • Lamy Swift Retractable Rollerball. Stay tuned on this one, as it has a few cool aspects that I’ve never seen on another pen. (Like a retractable clip?) I received a couple of these pens with the large rotating Lamy display I ordered earlier this month, and I plan to have more to list in the coming weeks.

  • Montblanc Classique Ballpoint with Monteverde for Montblanc Gel Refill. Yes, you can turn your Montblanc twist ballpoint into a gel pen. These Monteverde for Montblanc gel refills are still around, and very good.

  • Pilot S20 Ballpoint. While I love my Jetstreams, Pilot’s “Acro-Ink” is excellent, and the Pilot S20 might be my favorite ballpoint for long writing sessions.

  • Notsu Vegan Leather Notecard Holder. It fit perfectly inside the Sinclair, what do you know? I plan to have this with me at my conference to discretely jot down any non-conference related thoughts that may be worth retaining.

So what about notebooks? With me this week are the same three notebooks I picked to start 2025 (the Musubi is very close to completion), along with the Lochby Field Journal Mini, which sadly will be out of stock for a while, from what Lochby tells me.

And What’s a Pen Show Week Without a Promo? This Time on Notebook Systems!

If I’m attending a pen show, I’ll always have something on special to compensate for the fact that I’m away from the shop for a few days (until Friday), and also to let those who can’t attend the actual show to get in on the fun. Even though I won’t be at the 2025 Baltimore Pen Show, I thought it might be fun to do a flash promo on notebook systems through Friday, March 7. Take 10% off notebook systems, including Traveler’s, Midori, Lochby, Laconic, and Stàlogy, using the code “TRAVEL” at checkout. I hope you use them for something fun!

I’ve switched things up some lately, but since I prefer aisle seats with little under-seat storage, this week’s travel companion was my classic Filson Twill Briefcase.

Did you like this post? The Gentleman Stationer is supported by purchases from the T.G.S. Curated Shop and pledges via the T.G.S. Patreon Program. To accompany this post, I filmed a short “unpacking” video (a true “bag dump”), which you can now view on the YouTube Channel!

Youtube bag dump video thumbnail showing pens laid out on a desk with a pen case to the side.
In Bag Reviews, Travel Tags Bag Dump, Traveling, Travel Pens
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Cornelissen is an art supply/calligraphy dealer that has been in business in some form since 1848.

Travel Interlude, Part II: Stationery Shopping in London, a Photographic Recap!

October 9, 2024

While a full recap of my adventures will have to await my return, along with a spread of what I’ve picked up on my travels, I thought it might be fun to live post some of the pictures I’ve taken in real time. My main observation regarding stationery stores in London (and most other boutique shops, for that matter), is that most are thoughtfully curated and laid-out, as opposed to the warehouse-style displays that you tend to see in the U.S. I’ve found the shopping experience to be pleasant and less-intense, and it was quite fun and even relaxing to shop for an afternoon! I’ve not had that experience in quite some time.

So far I’ve visited four main stores that sell stationery and related goods: L. Cornelissen (a calligraphy and art supply dealer); Present & Correct (a heavily curated stationery store with a thoughtful selection of unusual notebooks, writing implements - mostly ballpoints and pencils - and desk accessories); Choosing Keeping (probably the most “traditional stationery store” of the bunch); and the London Graphic Centre (a classic art/student supply store that sells the Freitag line of bags, which I’m still debating). I’ll post my full recap of what I purchased when I return, as most of it is so carefully wrapped and packaged that I want to have an opportunity to photograph the unboxing as well!

Present & Correct features one of the more thoughtfully curated selection of stationery and office items I’ve ever seen in person.

I of course had to photograph both sides of the iconic Choosing Keeping Storefront.

On the round table in the background you can see the iconic Choosing Keeping Notebooks, of which I purchased two.

London Graphic Centre is right around the corner from Choosing Keeping.

In our stationery community they are best known for their selection of Freitag bags, which are made from recycled truck tarps, car seat belts, and water bottles, making them both waterproof and generally indestructible. I'm still considering, but seeing that I experienced near-disaster last night after being caught in the rain with a bag of paper, I'm leaning towards "yes". 

The Gentleman Stationer is supported entirely by purchases from the T.G.S. Curated Shop and pledges via the T.G.S. Patreon Program. While our Brick and Mortar Shop is closed due to travel, regular online orders are still being processed and shipped by our helpers. If you enjoy our content please give us a follow and consider supporting us by shopping with us directly or pledging via Patreon. Many thanks!

In Travel Tags London, Traveling, Editorial
1 Comment

Travel Prep 2024, Part II: Choosing Pens for Travel

September 28, 2024

Continuing my mini-series of posts relating to upcoming travel, I thought I’d post my pen “packing list” for next week’s trip to London. You’ll notice a trend: I’m going for low-maintenance writing instruments focusing on ease-of-use, and plan to travel with everything in a single Rickshaw Sinclair Model R. Per my post from Wednesday, paper/notebook carry for this trip will consist of my Traveler’s Notebook and Hobonichi Weeks, and I should have plenty of room to bring stuff home!

What's going with me? My Rickshaw x Leigh Reyes Vanness Pens Exclusive!

  1. Traveler’s Company Ballpoint Pen or Anterique Mini/Brass Mini Ballpoint. I have a certain category of pens that I consider my “reading” pens, which I can easily clip to the front cover of a book - especially when I’m on the beach or on an airplane. These pens aren’t intended for long writing sessions; rather, I use them for underlining, annotating, and other marginalia. I’ll probably bring at least two with me.

  2. Anterique Brass Ballpoint Pen. These full-size low-viscosity ballpoints have a nice weight to them as well as an excellent .5mm refill that writes well on all types of paper, and which is quite convenient for travel. Some of you have asked recently about refill compatibility for these pens: While the stock refill is excellent, you can also use Bic-style “butterfly” refills, though you may need to adjust the length. For example, I have the pen shown here equipped with a slightly trimmed-down Ohto Needle-Tip refill.

  3. T.G.S. x. Sunderland Machine Works mk1. You didn’t think I was going to leave this one off the list, did you? While you can read more about why I love the Sunderland mk1 in the full review, It’s durability, ability to post, and comfortable grip has long made this pen a go-to travel companion, as well as an excellent everyday writer that is easy to use in meetings.

  4. Tom’s Studio Lumos Write Fineliner. One of the reasons I love these refillable fineliners is that they give me a way to use my fountain pen ink without having to worry about spills, leaks, or carrying refills. The Lumos pens refill using a cotton wick system, and the “Write” version comes equipped with firmer fineliner tips intended for writing, though you can always opt for the Lumos Pro and Lumos Pro Duo pens, which include a full set of 11 tips to choose from. I can’t emphasize how convenient these are. I’ve only had to refill my own pens once in about 6 months, since fineliners are much more efficient with their ink consumption than fountain pens.

  5. Vacuum Filler Fountain Pen. I’m going to list a general category here in slot number five. I will bring one fountain pen with me on the trip, and it will be a vacuum filler (probably my Pilot Custom 823), which should easily last me a week even if I were writing exclusively with this one pen every day. Vacuum fillers also have the shutoff valve that you can close to prevent ink from leaking into the cap on the airplane.

I took an Anterique brass mini pen on my last beach trip, and it's portability served me well.

Still Looking for Recommendations: London and the U.K.

I’m currently planning to be in London, U.K. in early October (but, alas, not for the London Autumn Pen Show). If you have any recommendations for shops I can visit or only-in-the-UK stationery brands I should explore, please drop a comment or send me a message! I’m currently planning to visit Choosing Keeping and Present and Correct, but would love to keep a full day (or two) of exploration on the calendar.

The physical shop will be temporarily closed to the public for the following two weekends due to the aforementioned international travel. Online orders will continue to ship while I am away. Please keep checking this page for updated opening hours and our public schedule.

The Gentleman Stationer is supported by purchases from the T.G.S. Curated Shop and pledges via the T.G.S. Patreon Program.

In Editorial, Travel Tags Travel Pens, Traveling, Editorial
8 Comments
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