New Resource: Introducing the "Ask TGS" Page!

I receive a lot of different questions from readers and customers, and because I can’t always respond in a timely manner due to the volume of correspondence and time constraints, I wanted to put together a site resource compiling answers to and links discussing some of the more common inquiries. I currently have these organized by topic (General, Pens and Ink, Paper, and Shop-related), but I may add to this over time. Please check out the new resource here!

While we are neck-deep in our move to a new shop location this week, we are still shipping orders within our typical 2-3 business day time frame. Many thanks to everyone who has continued to support us during this exciting, yet very scary, time! I look forward to sharing pictures of the new space as it comes together and hopefully seeing many of you in person.

Ask TGS: Permanent Inks for Artists and Attorneys

Whenever I get asked about permanent inks, it's typically a question from an artist or an attorney. Many artists enjoy inks that allow them to draw a dark line and then wash over it with ink or watercolors (or both), whereas the attorneys are typically concerned about permanence of a signature on a legal document and preservation of work product.

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This writing sample shown above was soaked for approximately 20 minutes in a sink full of water. This is the result. The paper wrinkled and started to fall apart more than the ink bled.

So what are my recommendations? While I'm not an artist, nearly all of my artist friends recommend Platinum Carbon Black as a drawing and sketching ink of choice. Carbon Black is a pigment ink, similar to other inks such as Sailor Kiwa-Guro "Nano Black", Noodler's Bulletproof Black, Tom's Studio Pigment Black, among others. These inks are formulated differently than most fountain pen inks, in that they rely on pigments that dry quickly and bond to the paper rather than water-based dye, and therefore have very fine particles that can potentially clog your pen if left to dry out. That's not to say they are "unsafe" - these inks are very much intended for use in fountain pens, but they do require periodic maintenance in the form of a thorough cleaning, especially when changing ink colors. The upside? I can say that these inks are absolutely "waterproof," not just water-resistant. (In addition to the photograph shown here, I posted a short video to YouTube demonstrating how I soaked this piece of paper in standing water and how the ink barely moved at all.) And if the ink does end up drying out and clogging your pen, a simple flush with water should fix the issue.

Water-resistant, but not waterproof: Caran d’Ache Magnetic Blue, a blue-black that was also soaked in the sink for the same amount of time.

For attorneys - and speaking as one myself - I would say that you have a bit more leeway. If you need absolute permanence (i.e., for a signature on a contract), you can of course use a pigmented ink or a ballpoint. But if what you're concerned about is preserving handwritten notes or marked-up documents, or simply avoiding losing work product due to spilled water or coffee, there are other suitable options to serve that more limited purpose. For example, certain blue-black inks such as Pilot Blue-Black, TWSBI Blue-Black, Pelikan Blue-Black, Caran d'Ache Magnetic Blue, etc., are highly water-resistant to the point that most writing will survive a simple spill, especially one that is cleaned up quickly. Similarly, any ink that contains iron-gall will have high water-resistance, including the line of Platinum "Classic" inks. (As with pigmented inks, you should clean your pen thoroughly to avoid mixing iron gall inks with standard fountain pen inks, which could result in clogs.)

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Though pigmented black inks and blue-black inks with iron-gall content get the most attention (probably because they have been around the longest), companies do make other colors of permanent inks. Shown here are Platinum Pigment Blue cartridges (which we carry in our shop), and other options include the Kakimori pigment inks, Noodler’s “Bulletproof” inks, and Sailor Storia line, which come in a wide array of colors.

I personally don't worry much about permanence with fountain pen inks. In nearly 20 years of using fountain pens, I can count on one hand the number of times I've completely lost a piece of writing due to a spill, none of which ended up being of any importance. That said, I will regularly use low-viscosity ballpoints such as the Uni Jetstream whenever permanence could be at issue. You can even use pencil, which is both water and fade-resistant, though documents that must be permanent for legal reasons generally require ink.

Do you have a favorite permanent or water-resistant ink? Drop a comment!

The Gentleman Stationer is supported entirely by purchases from the T.G.S. Curated Shop and pledges via the T.G.S. Patreon Program. If you enjoy our content, please consider supporting us directly!

Ask TGS: Where Do I Start with Paper for Notebook Systems?

I'm regularly asked: "How do I get started?" The sheer number of different brands of paper and notebooks now available on the market can be overwhelming to those new to the world of high-end and imported stationery. Lately, it's become one of the more common questions I receive, especially at pen shows from those interested in building out a planner or notebook system but not knowing where to begin.

Any paper recommendation depends heavily on intended use, but in my experience most new users (and most everyday writers in general) are looking for a versatile, multi-purpose paper that they can use with a fairly broad range of writing instruments and, in the case of fountain pens, different inks. Most people want the ability to use their notebooks both at work and for fun. Given that, I try to direct people to paper that balances "ink-friendliness" with reasonable dry times. There are plenty of paper options out there that fall into this category, and which are relatively inexpensive to boot, so it shouldn't be cost-prohibitive to experiment with a few different brands and find the paper that works best for you.

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The Lochby Field Journal can hold up to six slim A5 notebooks, or two thicker A5 notebooks. It’s a universal A5 size allows you to use different notebooks from all sorts of different brands, in an seemingly endless universe of layouts.

A Note on How These Recommendations are Set Up

Given my personal focus on notebook systems and covers, I typically get this question from people looking for refills for their new system binder from Lochby, Roterfaden, or another similar company. The recommendations below are therefore framed in terms of slim A5 notebooks. However, the same considerations apply to people looking to try good paper in general, and all of the companies listed below make their paper in a wide range of sizes and formats, including spiral notebooks and pads. And even with notebook systems, you’re not limited to the slim A5 notebooks (as shown in the picture above). You just won’t be able to carry as many at once.

• Midori MD Paper: I usually recommend that people start here, in either the standard MD notebooks or the three-packs of slimmer MD Light notebooks. (I can't tell a difference between the paper and I think it's the same.) For those who want to carry multiple inserts in a cover system, the MD Light notebooks will work best, but if you want to stick with one or two thicker notebooks, then go with the standard MD notebook. The reason why I love Midori paper, especially for those looking to test out good paper for the first time, is because the paper is somewhat absorbent and strikes a good balance between ink-friendliness and dry times.

• Nakabayashi Logical Prime Threadbound Notebooks. I discovered Nakabayashi paper last year, and it's proven extremely popular due to the fact that it's very fountain pen friendly, ink dries quickly, and the unique multi-lined ruling is reminiscent of Clairefontaine French-ruled paper without the longer Clairefontaine dry times. The slim A5 threadbound notebooks are most popular for the various "system covers", but there are other formats in different sizes. All of the various types of paper handle fountain pen ink well, including the lighter Logical Air and the heavier Yu-sari.

• Lochby Tomoe River 68gsm Notebooks. I have always preferred the heavier, slightly more absorbent 68gsm Tomoe River paper over the lighter 52gsm version, at least for everyday use. I've found that it has a faster dry time, and also resists tearing and wrinkling, making it a preferred choice for the office. That said, I've not been able to find much information on the future of this paper. Tomoe River Paper is now being manufactured by a new company, and while Lochby still has stock of the 68gsm paper, I suspect it will eventually be phased out given that it's (unfairly, IMHO) less popular than its lightweight counterpart. Lochby does have some interesting ruling options in this format, including Wide Ruled and Undated Planner layouts, which you can't easily find elsewhere.

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But What About the Traveler's Company Traveler's Notebook?

The Traveler's Notebook system is a bit of a different animal because it’s a proprietary size. While there are non-Traveler's branded refills out there in different papers, most of the "official" refills use some version of Midori MD Paper (most of the standard refills) or 52gsm Tomoe River (Lightweight Paper). I usually recommend that people interested in the Traveler’s Notebook start with the standard MD Paper refills (one blank refill is included with your cover) and then switch to the Lightweight Paper or Sketch or Watercolor Papers if they need something different.

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All of these recommendations are just a starting point. As I mentioned up top, once you find a core paper that works for most of your everyday writing, you can experiment and start trying different specialty papers and other brands. My favorite aspect of a multi-refill notebook cover (a "notebook system") is the ability to carry many different papers at once and switch back and forth as you go. (The next thing you know, you're a nut like me, with three different systems in rotation all at once, because you know you need to use all the papers!)

For further reading, be sure to check out our guide to fountain pen friendly papers, which has an active comments section in addition to the papers I’ve personally tried.

The Gentleman Stationer is supported entirely by purchases from the T.G.S. Curated Shop and pledges via the T.G.S. Patreon Program. If you enjoy our content, we greatly appreciate your support!

Ask TGS: "Emergency Pens" and Paper Sizes A4 vs. Legal

The questions keep coming! It turns out that I really enjoy writing these posts because they’re directly responsive to things that readers want to know. I’ve also received a lot of feedback that you all find the Q&A format helpful, so I’m going to continue to prioritize this type of writing and make this part of the regular rotation.

Question 1: Do You Carry an “Emergency Pen” That Is On Your Person At All Time?

I found this question interesting because (1) it’s somewhat offbeat/unusual and (2) I’ve curiously been asked about this topic several times in the past few months. First of all, by “emergency pen,” I believe people are referring to a very small compact pen that you keep on your person as a “last-resort” writing instrument for when you absolutely need something to sign a document, make an urgent note, etc. It doesn’t need to be comfortable to use for longer writing sessions. The key attributes here are portability, reliability - especially if it sits unused for a longer period of time - and unobtrusiveness. It’s almost always going to be some sort of ballpoint.

My current “anywhere and everywhere” choice: the Craighill Caro Pen.

To answer this question directly: yes. For many years I carried a “Wallet Pen”, which was basically a modified D1 refill with a clip attached to it, designed to sit in the middle of a bifold wallet. I lost track of this pen long ago (it’s probably still around here somewhere), but because I’ve moved on from larger wallets to slimmer card sleeves, it would no longer meet my needs. Currently, I have two options that I usually carry as a contingency. I keep a Craighill “Caro” pen attached to my keychain, and I’ve been incredibly impressed with this simple tool that was originally recommended to me by a reader. Like the Wallet Pen, the Caro takes a D1 refill and clips to your keychain using a dock attachment that functions as a cap. The cap uses a garter spring to ensure a secure fit - I’ve been carrying this pen for four or five months now, mostly in my pocket, and I’ve not had it come loose once. After the Caro, I would probably rely on the D1 refill in my Victorinox Swiss Army knife as a true “last resort” option.

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Craighill Caro Pen + Refill

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Craighill Caro Pen + Victorinox "Pen"

Question 2: Will US Legal-Size Writing Pads Fit An A4 Portfolio?

One of the more vexing paper sizes for those of us who love stationery products - especially imported bags and cases - is the U.S. Legal Pad. It’s a “size” typically unique to the U.S., but there’s no uniformity - throughout my career as a practicing attorney, I’ve seen products marketed as “legal pads” that measure any where from 8.5” x 11.75” to 8.5” x 14”. While the extremely long 14” version is not nearly as common as it used to be (even in the legal profession), you still have to be careful because legal pads will not fit A4 or Letter-sized portfolios once you go past 12” in length. For example:

Show here is an 8.5” x 11.75” Roaring Springs Legal Pad in an A4 Roterfaden Taschenbegleiter notebook cover. This fits quite well, but there’s no room left for a longer pad.

The pad shown in the picture above is an 8.5” x 11.75” Roaring Springs Legal Pad, which is roughly the same size as a traditional 8.3” x 11.7” A4 writing pad. This particular “legal pad” should fit most A4 portfolios and padholders, but again, pay attention to your specific dimensions when you are ordering. For additional information on how different paper sizes compare, you can check out this rough “guide” to paper sizing from a few years ago.

Ask TGS in Person: Visit us at the California Pen Show This Weekend!

Tomorrow morning I’m leaving bright and early for the 2024 California Pen Show, where I will be holding a discussion/class/seminar on “Stationery for Everyday Writing,” and I hope to keep most of the focus on questions such as the ones addressed here, as well as in other recent “Ask TGS” Posts on topics such as how to avoid staining your pens, how to get the best writing experience with specialized inks (like shimmer inks), and the best paper for written correspondence (personal or professional). I hope to see you there!

The Gentleman Stationer is supported by purchases from the T.G.S. Curated Shop and pledges from the T.G.S. Patreon Program.

Ask TGS: Common Questions on Fountain Pens, including Hard Starting Pens and Staining Inks

Welcome back to another installment of “Ask TGS”! I get a LOT of mail, whether it’s e-mail, snail mail, or social media DMs, and unfortunately there’s no way I can respond to it all. I’m therefore trying to devote at least one post per month to answering the more frequently asked questions, and eventually plan to compile these posts into a FAQ resource. This week’s selection of questions focuses on fountain pens and common performance issues, including skipping/hard-starting and - gasp - the possibility of ink staining the pen.

Question 1: I recently purchased my first fountain pen and inked it up out of the box. The pen tends to skip and hard start. Is this normal for a new Pen?

I get this question in the mailbag a few times each year. While it’s never “normal” for a fountain pen to skip and/or hard start, it’s not uncommon, especially in brand new pens. The usual culprit is residual oil or other miscellaneous residue in the nib left over from the manufacturing process. For this reason, I hardly ever ink a pen right out of the box - typically I’ll use a bulb syringe to flush the pen with a mixture of water and a drop of diluted dish soap, and then flush the pen again with water before inking it up for the first time.

If problems persist, I usually suggest that you write with the pen for a day or two and see whether the issue resolves itself. For whatever reason, some fountain pen nibs need a “break in” period to adjust themselves to your hand, but this should never take longer than a couple of days of writing. If you are still having issues at that point, I would contact the seller or manufacturer and follow their instructions.

A note on terminology: “Skipping” occurs when the ink stops flowing while you are writing. A “hard start” occurs when you can’t get ink to flow after you cap the pen or stop writing for a bit.

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Don’t automatically assume that gold nibs are “better” than steel nibs just because they’re more expensive. It all comes down to feel and personal writing preference.

Question 2: What is the difference between a gold nib and a steel nib on a fountain pen? Does the gold nib cost more because it performs better?

The gold nib costs more because it is made of gold and sometimes has a more involved manufacturing/finishing process. While you will often see gold nibs referred to as “higher quality” and an “upgrade,” that’s not necessarily the case in terms of performance. Many fountain pen users - especially those who prefer a firmer nib that writes a drier line - favor steel nibs, and I’ve even used softer steel nibs that I’ve found indistinguishable from gold. Generally speaking, gold nibs tend to write “softer” and “wetter” than steel nibs, and a wet pen nearly always feels “smoother” on the page, leading to the common misconception that gold nibs are always smoother writers than steel. It really comes down to personal preference: If you’ve never used a fountain pen with a gold nib, I strongly encourage new users to either visit a pen show or pen club and test one out in person before making the investment. If you don’t have access to in-person meetups and events, pens like the Pilot Custom 74 and certain models of the Lamy Studio still feature a gold nib option for around the same price point as a more expensive steel nib pens (sub-$200), allowing you to experiment without breaking the bank.

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I love my crazy Inkvent inks but probably would not use them in my prized celluloid pens.

Will ___ Ink Stain My Pen? Is it “Safe” to Use?

There’s really no way to make a categorical statement about what inks are “safe” and what inks are capable of staining or ruining a pen, because so many different variables are in play. My response to this question is always the same: If you have a specific pen that you are concerned about staining, then you should only use blue or black ink made by a company that manufactures fountain pens (preferably the company that made your pen). Even this doesn’t guarantee that your pen will remain pristine. It will, however, keep the pen under warranty. Many pen companies reserve the right to refuse to honor warranties for things like staining and discoloration if you use inks manufactured by another company.

That said, the only materials I really worry about staining are celluloids and clear, white or cream colored resins. Outside of these materials, I’ve found that most acrylics and resins used in modern fountain pens typically clean fairly easily. In terms of colors, purple and red inks tend to stain the most, and highly saturated inks (including with heavy sheen) should be used with caution in pens susceptible to staining.

I hope you find this post helpful. If you have questions that you’d like answered, please send an e-mail through the “Contact” link with “Ask TGS” in the subject line. I maintain a list of questions to be answered and will hopefully be able to respond in some form or fashion. You can view earlier installments here and here.

The Gentleman Stationer is supported entirely through The T.G.S. Curated Shop and the TGS Patreon Program. We truly appreciate all of our readers and customers!